A scrap piece of aluminum channel was used as a backer. This keeps the hole from burring on the bottom of the drilled piece when the bit punches through.
Like so.
No burs. Can see the radii filed into the ends of the rail.
My countersinks were too wide to fit into the top of the channel, so a drill bit was re-pointed to match the taper of the screw heads.
Need to drill the stock.
A transfer punch to mark pilot hole locations.
Just left the rail in place and drilled through.
Screwed down the rear of the rail then drilled the front pilot hole. Took absolutely no chance of the rail walking in the slot.
The visible face of the rail has a few stray scratch marks from the drill press table.
Some 500 grit emery paper wet with WD40 gave a nice satin finish. Cleaned up that half-round forward edge as well.
Before running the screws home a final time, I coated the threads with beeswax.
The wax reduces the torque needed to seat the screws, helps seal the wood and acts as a thread lock.
A few rail accessories. An Anschutz palm rest, an old Uncle Mike's (?) anatomic hand stop, and a basic hand stop/sling swivel.
Too much. Massive overkill for such an otherwise light rifle. Save this for the LG-380. Somebody should clean off his workbench... Wait--that IS clean.
The basic hand stop is about right for this gun. Gives a sling attachment point and a consistent and repeatable hand position.
The rail allows the hand stop to be positioned fore and aft to fit the shooter's preferred location for the offhand.
Probably stick with this one. It's at least a couple decades old. Think it's an Uncle Mike's.
Grab the forend and slide your hand forward until the web of your hand between the thumb and forefinger is against the rear of the hand stop. Doesn't feel quite right? Move the hand stop fore/aft and lock it back down until the balance point suits.
Gotta look around for the next project. Surely, there's something around here that needs some attention.
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