The tube, polished up a bit to remove the worst of the rust. It’s pitted. Shouldn’t be that big of an issue as it’s hidden by the forearm.
Unfortunately all the pounding, even though I used the plastic drift, flared out the end of the tube. Darn. This is an example of one of the many reasons why I don’t fix other people’s airguns. If I had to do it again I probably would have sawed the forearm off…
So I removed about .08” of length of the tube threads. I hope that it won’t matter and that I can remove even more. I can screw the cap on now but it is too tight for my liking. When I get things put back together I can check and see how much wiggle room I have.
That stuck piercing cap. I chose a spare socket…
And made a spanner from it…
And sheared off one ear from the force being applied. At this point I asked on the Vintage Airgun forum if there was a trick, and indeed there was: “That nut has a threadlocking compound on it, so it will require a bit of heat to free it up. But most importantly - that nut has a left hand thread. Heat it up, and turn it clockwise to remove it.” Thanks LeonardJ!
So out came my trusty heat gun.
Done after heating for about a minute. A left hand thread makes sense as you don’t want the front to unscrew against the thrust of the cap being screwed onto the tube. Nonetheless it was a surprise.
This is how I held it in a vise without marring it.
A small hard o-ring inside the end.
All the parts.
Yes, a left hand thread.
I think the spanner came out better the 2nd time around as well.
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