A coat of copper anti-seize on the piston body, spring and acetal guide.
The spring guide on an IZH 60/61 goes into the piston first--then the spring fits over it. This is the opposite of most guns I've rebuilt.
Of course, this tab of sheet metal isn't on the IZH schematic. It disengages the ratchet on the cocking lever pivot once the piston is drawn completely rearward and caught by the sear.
It fits here on the end cap with the bent end under the ratchet. Forget it and it'll be impossible to return the cocking lever to the closed position. Guess how I know that?
End cap installed and rotated to engage the catch.
Greased the cocking lever
I installed it at a 90 degree angle then rotated it into alignment.
Like so.
Wiggle and shimmy the pivot end into location then install the pin.
Here's what started this whole mess. The catch doesn't quite line up. I have to flex the cocking lever upward to make it work, and that's annoying.
Another pic.
Clamped the solid pivot end of the lever in some aluminum vise jaws.
And gave it a good push. I was surprised at how sturdy the lever was to lateral force. I expected it to bend rather easily. Had to bend/test fit/bend a couple times until it had moved far enough to line up the latch.
Centered.
For further reassembly and tuning instructions, see some of our older IZH-60/61 posts.
Finished the reassembly and found that the sear wouldn't catch the piston without a hard pull at the end of the cocking stroke. Knew immediately that the spring was coil bound. Could've ground down the spring, but I elected to shave down the base of the new guide.
Quit after taking off a few thousandths. There will be some minor length variances on the mainsprings due to the ends being ground, but the factory really nailed the spring length. There's only about the thickness of a nickel available before the gun is coil-bound. If you add rotation washer(s) or a top hat weight to the piston, the spring will have to be shortened by a comparable amount.
Check back soon.
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